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Nissan OEM turbo reviews

18 april 2007

in FAQ - Overig

For mild power upgrades or budget turbo conversions, second-hand OE turbochargers can be a cost-effective alternative to brand-new aftermarket units. Knowing which one best suits your requirements is another matter. In this issue, we start by looking at popular Nissan turbos. The importing of a second-hand Japanese original-equipment and aftermarket parts, which has literally boomed during the keen enthusiast some extremely interesting options. Specifically, when it comes to turbochargers. Where selection was very limited (and knowledge base quite small) only a few years ago, these days things have changed dramatically. Turbocharged performance engines still being the flavour of the month in Japan have ensured that at second-hand import level there is a plethora of turbochargers available to either upgrade your existing turbo engine, or to force induct a normally induct a normally aspirated engine. A good example of applying Japanese original-equipment manufactured turbos to a specific engine is the Workhorse Wake-up twin-turbo Falcon project we recently did. Compared to the cost of an aftermarket turbo, a reconditioned second-hand turbo can make much sense. You have to be sensible about the whole thing, though. You must realise that matching up a second-hand import turbocharger to your engine is never going to be a substitute for a brand-new, properly matched turbocharger, such as the latest Garrett roller-bearing offerings. The reasons are simple. Most of the OEM units feature ceramic turbine construction, which limits the amount of shaft speed (boost) they can handle before the turbine simply delaminates and fails. For sensible, mild power upgrades, though, a reconditioned factory turbocharger can be quite a good thing. Many readers won’t be surprised that most of the turbos we feature here are of Nissan origin. It’s not that they are any better than anything else is; it’s just that they are the most plentiful, the cheapest and, in many instances, offer the most performance. Also, being Garrett designed, they are the most serviceable and ‘modifiable’, from an aftermarket point of view.
While these are not the ONLY turbochargers available from Nissan, they are the most common offerings from importers. From here it’s up to you to determine what best suits your application. Think wisely when you purchase and realise that for reliable, trouble-free service the turbo should be reconditioned before it can be used. Ensure you have some idea of how much this will cost before you pay for a turbo.
NB: Thanks to Japanese Motorsport (08) 8260 6929, ATS (08) 9377 2511 and GCG Turbochargers (02) 9708 2122 for the compilation of this data.

GARRETT T25

They are from the small series of turbochargers specifically engineered for original-equipment small-capacity engines, have their roots in the ET Pulsar, and culminate in a ‘twin’ application on the 300ZX twin-turbo VG30DETT. In single form, they are not recommended for performance applications.
Car of Origin: Nissan S13 Silvia/180SX
Engine: CA18DET
Flange: Four-bolt; it fits most Nissan four-cylinder turbo engines
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 130kW
Max. Boost: 1.0bar (14.5psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.48 AR, compressor 0.49 AR
Comments: A small and reasonably ineffiecient turbocharger that should only really be used as a straight fit for an existing CA18DET engine to replace a failed unit. It’s not recommended as a bolt-on for a normally aspirated engine of more than 1600cc.
Cost: Normally quite expensive, $450+ due to the replacement demand in the normal service industry for these turbocharger
Rating: One out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan PS13 Silvia/180SX
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Same as above
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 160kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: Improved flowing version of the CA18DET turbo makes it a great straight-fit bolt-on to the CA series, but becomes borderline on even a lightly modified SR20 engine. That the S14 series of cars moved to using a bigger T28-style unit is testimony to this.
Cost: Again, being a straight fit for all of the 2-litre turbo imports makes them an in-demand unit and pushes their cost through the roof. $550+ makes them expensive, but they are a great fit-up for a lightly tuned S13 CA18DET
Rating: Two out of five.

GARRETT T28

The next size up from the T25, the T28 series of turbochargers are more serious items. They are used in twin form on the Nissan Skyline GT-R and singularly on the Pulsar GTi-R, S14 and S15 series Silva/200SX. They make a decent upgrade for the S13 series of cars when more than 150kW are reliably expected to be produced.
Car of Origin: Nissan S14 200SX pre-1996
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Four-bolt, same as the T25 series.
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 170kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: The ultimate OE bolt-up to the S13 series of cars, the best part is that it bolts straight on. A good little all-round mid-range turbocharger that has proven itself to be extremely reliable in service.
Cost: Expensive due to their fitment to an Australian-delivered car. Their price starts at $650 for a second-hand unit.
Rating: Three out of five

Car of Origin: Nissan S14 200SX post-1996, S15
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Four-bolt, the same as the T25 series
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 170kW or slightly more
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: While the housing are the same as the earlier S14 turbocharger, the latter item has sophisticated Garrett ball-bearing internals, which guarantee a faster ramp-up to boost than the previous model. This is the pick of the T28 series.
Cost: They’re hard to find second hand due to the relative scarcity of the S14 black rocker cover engines. Normally, you are best off to buy these new from a turbo supplier.
Rating: Four out of five

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R32, R33 GT-R
Engine: RB26DETT
Flange: Four-bolt, the same as the T25 series
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 150kW
Max. Boost: 1.3bar (18.8psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.48 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: They are really only good for use on stock GT-R engines due to their relatively small exhaust housing. For some reason, they seem to be able to handle more boost before turbine failure, but there are still plenty that have let go.
Cost: Anything with a GT-R part number is expensive!
Rating: Two out of five

GARRETT RB20/25 SERIES

Even though many tuners refer to the RB20 and VG30 (single) turbochargers as being a T3, this is not the case. Being a Nissan-branded item and having only Nissan identification markings on them (no AR markings etc.) can make identification difficult. All of the ball-bearing turbos have a telltale ‘fatter’ centre core section, as well as a bolt through the centre housing, which looks as though it has an effect on the thrust bearing pre-load. Overall, these turbos are very good performers.
Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R31 GTS
Engine: RB20DET NICS (ribbed rocker cover)
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 140kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: A poor-performing turbocharger that was only used on a handful of engines by Nisan before being replaced with the newer technology ball-bearing units. Top-end power is far from good, and the actual response (boost-response time) is also quite poor. It’s one to steer away from.
Cost: Dirt-cheap, as they are not in any demand. They have been seen to be as low as $100.
Rating: One out of five

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t
Engine: RB20DET ECCS (silver rocker cover)
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 160kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: A big step in the right direction from both Nissan and Garrett. A truely nice turbocharger, complete with modern aerodynamics and ball bearing construction. It’s a perfect choice to get the best from an internally stock, standard injector/management set-up. On a CA18 with a custom manifold, they are really good things.
Cost: Reasonable, with some examples floating around the importers for as little as $400. You have to be quick thoughm as they tend to sell fairly quickly.
Rating: Four out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R33 GT25-T
Engine: RB25DET
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 185kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: The big daddy of the range makes the RB25 turbocharger good for almost any mild six-cylinder application. Sparkling boost response in the low-rpm range and a reasonably hard-hitting top end make this the most common upgrade found on the RB20DET. It’s highly recommended.
Cost: Being very difficult to get hold of makes them highly variable in price. Sometimes about $700, sometimes more.
Rating: Five out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan Gloria, 300ZX
Engine: VG30DET
Flange: Four-bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 190kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: Apparently, these are slightly larger in exhaust housing size than the RB25, but have a fractionally smaller and different trim compressor. Information on these is sketchy, but due to their almost unknown application they are easier to find than the RB25 roller. A good choice, particularly if you put the RB25 compressor and cover straight on. In excess of 200kW have been produced with this combination.
Cost: Fractionally cheaper than the RB25 turbo and not as hard to get. They have been advertised at $650.
Rating: Four out of five

Bronnen:

(disclaimer)
  • Zoom magazine – Issue 42
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Replacing a T25 with a T28 turbo

18 april 2007

in FAQ - Nissan 200SX (S13)

Editors, Technical Advice and Contributors:
Steve Carter100 and Jez

A word of warning

Working on turbo systems can be hard work. The high temperatures can cause problems with seized nuts and bolts often requiring heating equipment to remove them and also a lot of time is often needed for tapping out or repairing damaged threads.  The T25 is also one of the worst turbo units to remove I have ever come across. Access is awkward and some nuts are impossible to get at without full removal of the system. Subsequently I would not attempt to carry out work on your unit if you do not have the relevant tools, expertise, help and time available to complete the job. Personally I would rather stick pins in my own eyes than do another T25 turbo. Having spent six hours just removing the unit due to seized up studs etc I can describe the removal as follows. Imagine sitting under your car, assume a sit up position and hold for 2-3 hours. Get someone to poke your head with a sharp object and drop a spanner on your face every five minutes.  Then imagine someone gently urinating coolant in your eyes and hair at sporadic intervals.  Finally poke yourself in the eye with a stick a couple of times.  You have now experienced the physical sensations of this job.  Still want to do it.  Read on then.
Safety first

Use axle stands when supporting the car. Remember if the engine has been running it will be hot.  Very hot. Let it cool. Wear goggles under the car to protect your eyes from falling dust and coolant. When using power tools such as angle grinders cover the car. Hot sparks can damage glass and paintwork. Also wear safety specs, mask and ear defenders.
Don’t use any gasket sealer on the turbo assembly. Dried up sealer can break off and be drawn into the turbo causing damage.  You can use it on the downpipe to exhaust if you wish but I would recommend a new gasket rather than sealer. Also some turbo warranties don’t allow for the use of exhaust sealer at this point despite the fact that crumbling sealer could not be sucked into the turbo.
You will need

Tools:
  • Jack and axle stand.
  • Sockets up to 19mm.
  • Spanners up to 19mm. Preferably ratcheting ring spanners.
  • Extension bars and UJ for sockets.
  • Long reach sockets.
  • File – round
  • File Flat
  • Stud lock (high temp)
  • Stud extractor (Possibly)
  • Tap and die.
  • PTFE tape.
  • Copper grease
  • Goggles
  • WD40
  • Ear defenders
  • Mask
  • Wire brush and drill
  • Angle grinder.
Parts:
  • New oil.
  • New filter.
  • New coolant.
  • Modified T28 turbo. (see below.)
  • Gaskets for manifold to block, turbo to manifold, turbo to downpipe, downpipe to exhaust and inlet pipe.  You will need a gasket set for a T28 since they are all the same. Available from Autojap – 02476474848
  • Replacement copper sealing washers for banjo bolts.
  • Fabricated air intake.
  • Modified intercooler pipe.
  • Modified T25 actuator if you intend to use the T25 Actuator.
Instructions

Removing the T25
1. Warm engine. (If you are doing an oil change – recommended when fitting new or recon turbos).
2. Jack the front passenger side up and chock with axle stand.
3. Remove the fuel pump fuse.  Found at driver’s side of engine bay in black box at front near the battery.
4. Crank engine until it stops.
5. Disconnect the battery.
6. Drain oil and refit the sump plug.  I use a little PTFE tape on the threads but it isn’t essential.
7. Remove oil filter if you are fitting a new turbo or doing an oil change. 8. Drain coolant at radiator using stopcock. It is at the passenger side at the bottom. Collect in a clean container and cover if you intend to reuse.  Take off the rad cap to aid drainage. Alternatively you can drain the coolant from the block drain plug just under the turbo/manifold assembly.  This will allow partial drainage since it will only empty the coolant that would dribble out of the turbo coolant pipes.
9. Refit the new oil filter. Smear the rubber seal with clean oil. Tighten by hand until it bites and then turn another ½ turn.
10. Remove the air intake to the turbo by disconnecting the hose clip at the turbo.
11. Disconnect the hose from the air flow meter by loosening the hose clip.  Disconnect the crank case vent pipe at the brass union and remove the boost pipe.
12. Remove the pipe work.
13. Look at the compressor outlet. There is a bracket, which supports some thin steel pipe work to the side of the rocker cover.  Disconnect the bracket at the outlet and at the side of the rocker cover.  Remove the steel pipe.
14. Disconnect the compressor air outlet by removing the three bolts.
15. Follow the pipework along from the compressor outlet.  You will come across a large steel black pipe, which is connected, to the front of the cylinder head. Remove the bracket from the cylinder head. There are two bolts.
16. Continue along until you get to the 90° rubber hose bend.  Undo the jubilee clip and remove the section of pipework.
17. Disconnect the crankcase vent pipe clip out of way.
18. Disconnect the oil feed from the block and the support bracket next to it.
19. Remove the heat shields from the turbo.
20. Working underneath the car, disconnect the exhaust.  It is advisable to soak the nuts in WD40 since they are renowned for seizing up. If they are very tight try applying heat from a torch. If you don’t have oxy acetylene I have found that plumbers torches often do the trick although they aren’t as hot. If the studs snap don’t worry. When the turbo is out you can remove the damaged stud and replace it.
21. Now disconnect the water pipes.  Remove the banjo bolt from the block side of the turbo and the other banjo bolt from the block and not the turbo.
22. Disconnect the oil drain under the turbo.  Two bolts.
23. Now remove the four exhaust manifold nuts at the top.
24. Next remove the front two under side stud nuts.  Finally working under the car remove the nuts at the rear and underneath the exhaust manifold.  This takes ages.  You will need to keep flipping the spanner over since there isn’t enough of a turn to get the spanner on without doing this.
25. Now remove the turbo unit taking care not to damage any of your paintwork.
The T28 turbo unit on the bench.
26. Now is a good time to get your turbo overhauled unless it is in good condition?
27. Once you have the unit on the bench you will need to make sure it is stripped.
28. Remove the downpipe by disconnecting the nuts they may have tab washers which will need bending.
29. Remove the exhaust manifold by disconnecting the nuts they may have tab washers which will need bending.
30. Remove the oil feed pipe, oil return, water in and water out pipes.
31. Low mileage examples second hand retail at about £150 to £200. I got mine with the exhaust manifold, actuator and downpipe with lambda sensor for £150. When buying the second hand turbo check the following. First visually inspect the housing and check there are no cracks.  Small cracks are common but they should not run through to the exterior of the housings.  Next inspect the exhaust turbine and inlet impeller.  The blades should not be bent or damaged. You will have to remove the downpipe to see the exhaust side turbine (You should already have done this). Next spin the shaft and check that it spins freely without noise.  Next check the movement of the shaft. It should have a very small amount of movement up and down.  It should have no play along the length of the shaft. If it move along the shaft it is knackered. Check the operation of the waste gate. Hold the actuator rod and apply firm pressure and the waste gate valve should open and close freely.  Finally check the exhaust side turbine again for carbon deposits. If the wheel is caked in carbon the shaft will not be balanced and the exhaust side bearing is likely to have been damaged by the abrasive build up of carbon.  If your unit has passed the tests buy it and go to the next step.
32. It is advisable to have the unit checked at a turbo center and have the seals uprated. Normal turbo units have a seal like a piston ring. If you are fitting a T28 it is likely that you have already started modifying your car and have a performance exhaust fitted.  Such exhausts cause a large drop in back pressure so that on occasions the pressure in the exhaust actually becomes negative.  This puts stress on the average turbo unit because oil is sucked out of the bearing through the gap in the sealing ring. A much better system is to fit a seal with tapered ends. When the back pressure drops and starts to suck oil it causes the ring to close up and seal. This stops the rather annoying phenomena of puffs of smoke on gear change after fitting a performance exhaust. It also stops the oil carbonizing on the exhaust turbine, which can lead to shaft imbalance and abrasive damage leading to premature failure of the turbo unit.
33. If you want to spend more money you might consider having the unit machined in order to take a 360° thrust bearing.  These are in place of the normal 270° thrust bearings.  They are expensive due to the need to machine out the housing to take the larger bearing assembly.  In addition you could go for ball bearing assemblies and countless other things.  However, if you are doing mods on the cheap and using a second hand T28 then it is probably best just to go for the performance seals or the 360° thrust bearing.
Modifying the T28 for fitment to the S13
34. The first modification is to create an opening for the waste gate actuator to read boost from. The S14 takes its boost from one of the intercooler pipes and the waste gate operates in the same way.  The T25 has a compressor wheel housing fitment so the boost is measured directly from the turbo (If you look at the unit you will see a brass fitting in the cold wheel housing).  This is the best place to measure it from since it avoids problems with boost spikes.  You can do the following. Remove the pipe from the T25 and unbolt the brass housing. Measure the threads and then drill a hole in the compressor housing and tap threads to take the brass fitting (As far as I know it is an unusual thread – tap is a 1/4″ UNF. I had this done at my turbo center for free.  If you are doing it on your own and don’t want to strip the turbo (to remove all the crud which will fall into the housing) you could measure the boost from the outlet pipe. Again you will have to drill a hole and tap a thread (SEE PICTURE TO SEE HOW SOMEONE ELSE DID IT).  Alternatively to avoid tapping you could weld a suitable nut on to the outlet pipe but this might require special welding equipment since the pipe is an alloy.  If you haven’t got a suitable tap (e.g.: you only have metric) an alternative is to by another brass fitting from a hardware shop and get one with a metric thread.
35. Next take the downpipe from the T25 and mate it up with the T28. You will note that one stud doesn’t quite mate up with the downpipe.  Use a round file and slot the hole on the downpipe so it will fit. You may also need to file the new gasket if you have ordered an S13 gasket set.  Ideally you should have ordered an S14 gasket set then it would fit perfectly. If you are filing the S13 gasket be careful not to damage it. It is only thin metal.
36. If you intend to use the lambda sensor form the S14 at some point you will need to drill a hole in the downpipe and weld a nut on in place to take the sensor.  Make sure you locate the lambda sensor where it will not foul the bodywork or engine. Also, wire brush the area to ensure a nice weld.  Clean out the chaff from the downpipe after drilling. Alternatively since welding cast steel can cause cracking a better method is to drill and tap a hole.  Or get a downpipe off a post 91 car with a probe fitted already.
37. The next task is to fabricate an air intake stub pipe. The easiest way to do this is take the measurements from the attached picture. You can either get this made up at an engineers, source one for sale through the club (I think these are rare and take ages to arrive – try Bren on 07779226338) or make your own. Cut out a flat mating face from 3mm steel and cut a suitable piece of pipe. Then weld the pipe to the mating face. You might find that you need to drill a series of hole to form the internal hole in the mating flange. Then cut from hole to hole and tidy with a file. If you get it made at an engineers they will make a nice neat hole in 5 seconds with a plasma cutter or suitable huge drill.  You can still make a neat flange manually – it will just take forever. I managed to find an exhaust centre with a matching flange and pipe cut off an old exhaust. It took a bit of cleaning up with a wire brush and angle grinder but looked fine once I had painted it.  Try your local exhaust centres.
38. Take the black pipe, the one which you removed earlier.  It was the pipe that ran parallel to the rocker covers and was bolted onto the cylinder head. Use an angle grinder to cut off the bracket and weld.  Grind smooth and paint. You don’t need this bracket anymore and removing it makes the engine bay look like it hasn’t been modded at home. You could leave it on. I thought it would look silly though.
39. If you intend to use the T28 actuator or an uprated T28 actuator go onto the next section. It is worth noting that the manual states that the actuators should be checked by measuring the movement of the waste gate at different boost pressures.
T25 0.83-0.89 bar = 0.38mm movement
T25 1.31 -1.4 bar = 4.0mm movement
T28 0.61 – 0.66 bar = 0.38mm movement
T28 0.76 – 0.84 bar = 4.0mm movement
40. You should note that the T25 is therefore more able to handle higher boost pressures and it is possible therefore to use the T25 actuator with some modifications to run higher boosts.
41. To use the T25 actuator the following needs to be done.  First cut off the end of the actuator rod. Use a die to cut a thread onto the rod of the actuator.  You will need to match the thread to the threaded actuator end, which you will need to have sourced previously.  My turbo centre gave me a threaded actuator rod end for free and a locknut.  The next step is to grind the T25 actuator bracket so that it fits flush with the bracket on the T28, which is used to hold the heat shields. Once the T25 bracket sits flush with the bracket on the T28 it can be welded and then ground smooth. The heat shield bracket on the T28 is anodized so grind the finish off to ensure a clean weld.  Check out the pics. A coat of paint makes the bracket look more like an original item.  You will need to use high temperature paint though.
Fitting the T28.
42. Before the turbo is refitted you should do the following.  Clean the banjo bolt mating faces with meths.
43. Pour some fresh oil into the oil inlet and spin the compressor.  This is especially important if you turbo is new or rebuilt.
44. Feed a piece of string through the oil feed pipe and pull it through to check it is clear of crud if it is not new.  Also if you have the old type of oil feed with a brake union type of fitting replace it with an uprated pipe with a banjo bolt end. Ideally a braided pipe is best since they are easier to work with. Always replace all the copper banjo bolt seals.  If you don’t they will be bound to start leaking.
45. Fit the oil feed pipe and tighten the banjo bolt securely. You won’t be able to get at it when it is refitted.  Tighten until it nips and then add another half turn so that the copper washers have compressed and sealed properly.
46. Refit the exhaust manifold using a new metal gasket (S13 type) and tightening the nuts up progressively. Don’t forget to use split or fan washers and I recommend that you use folding tab washers to lock the nuts in place. See my notes at the end.
47. Replace the downpipe using a new metal gasket (S13 type), locking tab washers and spring washers. Don’t forget to put all the heat shield mounting brackets on.
48. Now put all the heat shields on and note where they foul the new T28.  You can use both the S13 manifold heat shields with minor modifications.  However only one of the heat shields from the T28 turbo can be used.  The front large one.  Discard the small underside plate. You will need to use an angle grinder to trim them and get them to fit.  I also wire brushed mine to get a nice shine.  Look at the attached pics.
49. Remove the heat shields again since you will have to fit them later. You can leave on the heat shield that fits under the exhaust manifold.
50. Bolt on the inlet pipe flange (the one you have made) and fit the inlet pipe gasket as well.
51. Rub the exhaust manifold mating face with emery paper and then clean with meths. You can also use a scraper.  Use a vacuum cleaner to remove all traces of dust.  You don’t want any being sucked through the turbo.
52. Clean all the studs with a brush and meths.  If any of the threads are damaged don’t use them again.  Remove the studs with a stud extractor and replace. It is hard enough work fitting the damn turbo when you can get the nuts on without fighting damaged threads.  If you don’t have a stud extractor use two nuts locked together.
53. Put on the new exhaust manifold gaskets. Make sure they are on the right way round and not covering the ports.
54. Offer up the turbo and manifold being careful not to damage or bend any of the pipes in situ.
55. Loosely tighten all the nuts in place with your fingers and remember to put the thick washers on.  It is impossible to fit the bottom back two washers and nuts if the manifold is tight on. The bottom back two are very difficult to get on.  I did the front one of the two from underneath and the back one of the two from above with one hand round the front of the turbo and one round the back. Before finally tightening the nuts make sure your oil feed pipe is located in situ on the block. You can get it in later but you risk bending or damaging the oil feed pipe.  If it is braided you don’t need to worry at this stage. Now torque all the manifold nuts progressively.
56. Make sure the back bottom two are tight. You may need to link a second ring spanner to the one you are using to get enough leverage in such a confined space.
57. Refit the coolant banjo bolts using new washers.
58. Refit the oil drain using a new gasket if needed.
59. Refit the oil supply and supporting bracket.
60. Refit the heat shields.  If you don’t like these they can be discarded.  They are not essential but I would recommend them for the following reasons.  When polished up they look smart. The hotter the turbo the more fluid the exhaust gas and therefore the faster the turbo will spool up.  Reducing heat in the engine bay allows some rubber items and wires to last longer.  Reducing engine bay temperatures can help reduce the amount of warm air being drawn into your cone filter.  You might want to leave off the outer heat shield for access to the actuator. You will need to set this up later.
61. Refit the exhaust pipe using a new gasket.
62. Fit the air inlet pipe.
63. Fit the steel pipe (the one you cut the bracket off) and the rubber 90° bends so that the compressor outlet is reconnected to the intercooler inlet. If you loosen all the jubilee clips and make sure the steel pipe has the bend orientated so that it drops down towards the turbo you should find that you can attach all the pipe work without too much difficulty. Remember that in future you will not be able to lean on this pipe when working on the engine since it is no longer attached to the engine and would stress the hoses and connectors.  You may prefer to weld a bracket on and I have included a picture to give an example of how you might do this.  Notice how the air intake is now a tight fit.
64. Reconnect the crankcase breather pipe to the air intake and slide in the boost pipe.
65. To refit the thin boost pipe a small modification is need since you no longer have a bracket to mount the thin steel pipe to. Your new T28 doesn’t have a point on the compressor outlet to attach the steel pipe to.
66. Take the thin steel pipe and cut it where it fits to the block.  Leave 3 cm of pipe so that you can connect some boost pipe to it.
67. Now reconnect the cut pipe to the cylinder head and slide on some boost pipe.  Route the boost pipe along the crankcase breather and clip it to two or three of the large plastic clips.  You will have to flip the clips over so that the pipe can run along the underside of the breather hose. To join the boost pipes together you can cut off a 4 cm section of the discarded thin metal pipe and slide the rubber ends onto this.
68. Fill the car with coolant. Leave the rad cap off.
69. Refill with fresh oil.
70. Now check everything is back in place.
71. Check for coolant leaks and oil leaks.
72. Crank the engine for a second.
73. You should have a nice whir as the starter turns the engine. If you hear any horrible noises stop and work out what is wrong.
74. Remember there is no fuel supply yet.  Now switch the ignition on. Check you have the oil warning lamp on. Flick the starter and crank the engine for 15 seconds. The oil warning lamp should go out before the 15 seconds is up. You have now fully primed the turbo and new oil filter.  If your oil warning lamp doesn’t go out after 15 seconds stop and check the oil level.  Repeat the procedure.
75. Lower the car back to the ground.
76. Reconnect battery.
77. Check oil level and top up as required.
78. Refit the fuel pump fuse.
79. Set heater controls to max heat.
80. Fire the engine and allow to idle.
81. Check for coolant and oil leaks whilst the engine is running.  Check round the sump plug and oil filter.  Check the turbo oil in/out and coolant in/out.  Check the drain on the rad.
82. Confirm that the interior heater is running hot. If not you have an air block.
83. Check the coolant level doesn’t drop and leave the rad cap off so you can top up as needed.
84. Once the engine is at operating temperature leave it to run for 10 minutes to be sure the thermostat has fully opened. If the heater is still blowing hot replace the rad cap.  Check oil and coolant one more time.
85. If you have fitted a new turbo it should be run in.  The assembly will be very tight and will loosen up as it runs in. Sensible driving for 300 miles should allow it ample time to run in. At which point you can start ragging it or playing with the boost.  Don’t forget if you have recently rebuilt your engine you should run it for 1500 miles before increasing the boost above normal.
Setting up the car to run.
86. If you don’t have a boost gauge you will need to take the car to a rolling road that has the facility to measure boost. It is recommended that you use an expensive and accurate boost gauge to set up the boost level you want to run. Cheap boost gauges could lead to a higher setting than required due to inaccuracies.
87. If you have an adjustable actuator undo the lock nut and remove the c clip which holds the rod onto the waste gate valve. Pull the link off the waste gate and turn the end. Clockwise to shorten and increase boost and vice versa. Tighten the lock nut refit the rod and c clip and then take for a run whilst monitoring your boost gauge. Remember to let your engine warm up for 10mins before thrashing it and always let it cool down.
88. I recommend that you fit a remapped chip to sort out the fueling for the bigger turbo. In addition, if you haven’t got a new or uprated pump the likelihood is that your pump will not be able to keep up with the demands of the T28. Fit an uprated pump.
89. A new set of plugs is recommended if you are increasing the boost above standard.  You will need to run colder plugs to cope with the increased temperature brought about by running higher boost.  Plugs suggested for use are NGK BCPR7ES (maybe even 8′s depends how much boost you run), or the NGK platinum equivalent PFR7A-11 or PFR8A-11 or the Denso Iridium IQ 22s or 24s.
90. Ignition timing should be set to 15° BTDC if you have remapped the chip. Otherwise, the timing may need to be retarded to avoid detonation at higher revs. You could try 14° BTDC.  The best solution is definitely to run a different chip though.  Try the car out and listen for detonation.  If it is detting retard the timing a little.
91. If you are running higher boost you will also need to use a higher rated fuel such as SUL or optimax to help reduce detonation.
Locking tab washers.
I found that I had a number of problems with nuts working loose. The turbo runs very hot under operating conditions and this causes the studs to expand and contract allowing the nuts to work loose. The escaping exhaust gases make short work of any gaskets and you normally have to do the entire job again to replace the damaged gaskets.  In order to stop the nuts working loose during this process locking tab washers can be used. I made some out of rectangular pieces of metal.  Drill a hole in one end. Cut a slice lengthways from the other end towards the hole.  Slip over the studs.  Put on nut and torque.  Hammer one end over the nut and the other over the edge of the flange you are bolting together.  The nut is mechanically held in place and should never work loose.  You can also use high temp stud lock to help keep nuts tightly in place. Another trick is to use two nuts with a lock washer between them and a tab washer.
Guide to pictures
1. View of T28 unit off scrap vehicle.
2. View of intake on T28 showing missing flange.
3. Front view showing the T25 and T28 difference in size.
4. View of rear of T28 showing visual checks of second hand unit required.
5. View of front of T28 showing checks of shaft required.
6. View of newly tapped boost measurement hole in the T28 compressor housing.
7. Alternative method of tapping boost measurement hole.
8. View of T28 bolts that can be loosened in order to rotate the exhaust turbine housing.
9. View of T28 bolts that can be loosened in order to rotate the compressor housing.
10. View of T28 bearing housing being rotated so that the oil feed pipe is vertically Top dead centre.
11. View of downpipe and the hole which requires filing.
12. View of inlet flange.
13. Dimensions of inlet flange.
14. View of inlet flange with gasket.
15. View of lambda probe and housing bolt.
16. View of downpipe with hole drilled and tapped for lambda probe.
17. View of uprated bearing seals and standard seal.
18. View of compressor outlet steel pipe and bracket removal.
19. View of compressor outlet steel pipe and bracket removal.
20. View of compressor outlet steel pipe and prior to bracket removal and in situ with the T28.
21. T28 actuator mounting plate dimensions.
22. Section of T25 actuator mounting plate requiring removal.
23. Section of T25 actuator mounting plate requiring removal.
24. View of T25 actuator mounting plate after removal of sections.
25. View of T25 actuator mounting plate after removal of sections.
26. View of T25 actuator mounting plate after removal of sections.
27. View of T25 actuator mounting plate prior to welding to the heat shield bracket on the T28.
28. View of T25 actuator mounting plate prior to welding to the heat shield bracket on the T28.
29. View of T25 actuator mounting plate after welding to the heat shield bracket on the T28.
30. View of T25 actuator mounting plate after welding to the heat shield bracket on the T28.
31. Actuator rod prior to cutting.
32. Threading the actuator rod.
33. Finished actuator.
34. Finished actuator.
35. Home made tab washers on the T28 downpipe.
36. Home made tab washers on the T28 downpipe.
37. Modification required to S13 top of manifold heat shield.
38. Modification required to S13 top of manifold heat shield.
39. Completed S13 top of manifold heat shield.
40. Modification required to S13 underside of manifold heat shield.
41. Completed S13 underside of manifold heat shield.
42. Modification required to S14 large turbo heat shield.
43. Completed S14 large turbo heat shield.
44. View of discarded heat shield from T28 turbo.
45. Polished heat shields.
46. Air intake flange fitted to turbo.
47. Air intake to turbo.
48. View of rerouted compressor outlet pipe work using original steel tube in a new position.
49. Possible bracket which could be fabricated to secure the compressor outlet pipe work.
50. View of newly routed boost pipe.
51. View showing intended route of boost piping.
52. View of modified steel boost pipe work.
53. View of rerouted boost hose.

Bronnen:

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How to replace rear subframe bushes

18 april 2007

in FAQ - Nissan 200SX (S13)

Removing the subframe:
  • Chock the front wheels and jack up the rear of the car, place on axle stands, positioned on the chassis rails.
  • Remove wheels.
  • Remove exhaust system.
  • Unbolt the brake calipers and tie up to the suspension springs making sure the brake hoses are free of the subframe.
  • Unbolt the bottom of both struts from the subframe.
  • Unbolt propshaft from the diff.
  • Unplug the 2 wires from the back of the diff (Diff warning light and diff oil cooler switch)
  • Remove the oil cooler pipes from the pump and cooler radiator.
  • Undo the two bolts in front of the subframe holding the hand brake cables to the car and separate the front and rear halves of the cables.
  • Place a trolley jack with a plank of wood under the diff so that it spans the suspension arms, and is supporting the weight of the subframe assembly.
  • Undo the 4 nuts and brackets that are holding the subframe to the chassis.
  • Slowly lower he subframe using the trolley jack, checking for any fouling by the struts or pipes.
  • Block up the oil pipes to prevent the diff oil leaking out.
Removing bushes from subframe
If you have access to a press of some sort, use it, it will make the job 10 times easier. Otherwise…
  • Using a hole saw cut through both sides of the bush. The front bushes are silicon filled so will leak when cut. Its nasty sticky stuff.
  • If the hole saw has not cut right through both sides hit centre with a hammer, it will drop out.
  • Now comes the hard work. Put a hacksaw blade through the centre of the bush and cut through the side of the metal bush housing until you reach the subframe. Get a large chisel and hammer and from the top side of the subframe knock the edges of the housing in towards the centre. Eventually it will collapse upon itself and will be easy to remove. Sort of. This is hard work and time consuming.
  • If you are using Polyurethane type bushes just push them into place. If they are original type bushes I think (haven’t used these) a press will be needed to fit them.
Replacing Subframe is the reverse of removal. Torque the subframe mounting nuts to 110Nm.

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